TL;DR An epic 56km adventure with stunning views, amazing camaraderie, superb support, tough climbs and tougher descents. I ran strong to the finish and felt I had paced the race as well as I could at my first attempt over the marathon distance. I finished in 22nd place in a time of 7hrs 26mins 32secs. Onwards and most definitely upwards!
Training had gone really well over the summer months. I completed the Cheshire and Yorkshire 3 Peaks in June. A backyard ultra in early July and spent almost every Saturday in the Peak District with my friend Dave B. I also managed to get Jen W from work out onto Saddleworth Moor as she prepared for her race at the 13 Valleys Ultra in the Lake district. My race was the 5 Valleys, a 56km chopped down version of the full 13 Valleys 100 miler. A baby ultra.
Dave is an experienced ultra runner having completed many races and recently completed his first 100 miler. His advice regarding pacing and in particular nutrition proved invaluable during our training runs.
I had struggled with nutrition on a few training runs that exceeded 4 hours as my energy levels dropped. I experimented with various foods that I could easily carry and more importantly, digest on the run. After some trial and error hot crossed buns liberally filled with butter seemed to do the trick. Also good were banana, flapjacks and malt loaf. Avoiding an upset stomach was as crucial as eating food in combination with energy gels.
Dave also recommended a drink called Tailwind. Mixed with water it contains calories, electrolytes and hydration ingredients. Sipping this consistently meant I could also consume fuel in liquid form. After testing this on training runs I was confident I had my nutrition strategy sorted.
I got to Keswick around 7pm the night before the race. Heading straight to get my kit checked, collect my tracker and race number. I had to show all mandatory kit items including the trail shoes I would be wearing, Since the race was classified a mountain fell race I needed to carry full body cover, compass and whistle, food, minimum 800kcal, cup for hot liquids and an emergency bivvy bag.
Once passed kit check it was off to collect my race number. A GPS tracker was taped securely to my backpack and a photo for the website tracker page was taken. I was in and out within 15 mins. Back to Ambleside YHA to get some pre-race food. Since reading that an Aussie elite runner had pizza and a beer for pre race meal I've done the same. Lots of carbs even in the beer. We got to the hostel with 20 mins to spare to order our food.
The race started at 8am in Waterhead just outside Ambleside. The hostel was about 50m from the start line. I messed up breakfast as the hostel wasn't serving it until 7:30am. I assumed it would be earlier.
I quickly assessed what food I had brought with me and exchanged a few panicked messages with Jen who was staying close by. She kindly offered to cook me scrambled eggs on toast. I stopped panicking and settled for some bread and jam and two cups of tea.
My stomach was turning itself in knots from excitement and nerves so the breakfast I had proved perfect even if not exactly planned. The pizza the night before was excellent carbo loading anyway.
The start of this race was the polar opposite of something like London marathon, super low key, I literally walked from the hostel and moved into a decent position near the start-line. My wife who was her usual supportive and reassuring self and Jen saw me off the start line as the journey north to Keswick began in bright, cool conditions. The weather looked good for the morning but set to change as the day went on.
I had decided a while back to try and enjoy my first ultra and not race it. With this in mind I ran it all by feel and watched my heart rate more than my pace. If my heart rate peaked too much I backed off a little. My only consideration regarding pacing was to conserve energy during the first half of the race.
Another strategy I used was to break the race distance down into 5km sections. I would simply glance at my watch and notice I had gone into the next 5k which was a great boost. This was yet another pearl of wisdom from Dave.
A short section on the road out of Waterhead led to our first climb of the day. The idea was to fast hike the climbs especially early on when you feel fresh. Conserve energy. I had positioned myself fairly close to the front so I had clear sight ahead of me almost from the off. After the first gentle climb up into some woodland on rocky trail I transitioned into a run and started to warm up nicely. This became the theme of the day. Run when I could at a pace I felt comfortable. Fast hike when the slopes demanded my attention.
Into the first valley and the hills started to loom large in front of me. To the left, the imposing Hellvelyn. In front of me an oddly named (for a hill) High Street fell. It looked huge but spectacular in the bright sunshine. Every time I lifted my head I was treated with stunning scenery. I could just about see the front runners beginning their ascent away on the distance.
Rocky trails followed by some streams and wet ground preceded the start of the climb. Trying to keep my feet dry for as long as possible meant some leaps and avoidance to not cop a soaked foot. Others around me trying sometimes unsuccessfully to do the same. My trail shoes are pretty decent at drying out after a wetting but I still tried to avoid getting too wet.
Slowing to a fast hike I was in a small group of 4 or 5 others. Two of the group had poles to help them. They seemed very adept at using them. Almost skiing form I thought. As we started the climb up my focus was on maintaining good foot speed and remembering to push off from the balls of my feet instead of landing foot totally flat. I could feel my calves warming up to the task.
Working harder as the gradient increased but moving upwards with each stride. Checking in on my breathing and monitoring my heart rate I knew I was where I wanted to be effort wise. The scenery only got better and better as I climbed. The weather was superb, clear and bright. Barely any wind. It wouldn't last though as this is the Lake district after all.
Our little group did take the briefest of moments to pause and turn around for the spectacular views back down the valley looking towards Windermere. I snapped a quick photo. A few seconds later and onwards we climbed.
My watch has a cool setting where you can view an elevation graph and information such as vertical speed. Most importantly you can view distance until the summit of the climb you are currently ascending. It said 200m to go as I switched to this view on the watch. Almost there.
As we reached the summit the ground plateaued and a way marker was visible in the distance. Picking up the pace back into a run I saw three marshals appear into view marking the end of the first climb of the day. High Street fell summit reached 828m.
I good and took the sharp right down a rocky path at the way point leaving my pole wielding buddies behind me who seemed to stop for a breather or to admire the views. Sipping fluid became a habit and grabbing a bite to eat essential on any easier section of trail.
The path down from High Street fell seemed tame to begin with. It was quite rocky in places so carving a path through required some focus. It helped to slow me down if anything.
Running downhill has always been an Achilles heel of mine. A lack of strength, skill and belief means I run downhill slower than I run up. Training over the summer improved all aspects of my downhill running so I felt well equipped to run well downhill. However, the hills here were much more challenging than my training runs. Preserving my quad muscles for later in the race was also important.
The mostly dry rocky path soon became boggy and muddy grass slopes. Picking my way through trying to maintain a steady pace required all my focus. Only a couple of runners came past me so I figured I wasn't going as badly as I first thought. I was slowed to a walk on the final section with the first checkpoint of three in view. The terrain was slippery and very rough. Big steps down onto slippery rock and thick mud made it treacherous for my level of ability. The ground finally levelled off and I was able to gingerly begin to run with my quads burning from the breaking forces required to stay upright.
I was joined by another runner just before a small river crossing that required stepping stones and inevitably the first soaking of my feet. He had descended far better than me but did exclaim it was tough going. We crossed the river together and headed down a rocky path towards the first checkpoint at the northern edge of Hayeswater reservoir. Too busy talking we inexplicably missed the bright pink marker flags signalling a sharp right turn. Luckily a lookout at the checkpoint shouted up to us. It wouldn't be the last time this happened.
Waterhead to Hayeswater 19.3km in 2hrs 32mins.
At the checkpoint I was conscious to not hang around too long. More great advice from Dave. I was assisted in filling both my drinks bottles, one of which I emptied into a new sachet of Tailwind. I grabbed a slice of bread and spread a generous dollop of jam. As I got this down I also took on another energy gel before setting off into the next valley and the shorter stage to checkpoint two.
The second stage is the shortest stage of the day only being 10km and starts off along a long stretch of road. At first I thought I would welcome the surface change but it ended up being pretty long and tedious with quite a few twists and turns. The views more than made up for any apathy towards the surface. Easy km to bank I thought.
I managed to catch another runner and pass them as they fiddled with their pack. Still not needing my map screen on my watch as the pink flags every 100m or so made navigation straightforward (unless you're talking and not concentrating).
A couple of busy roads including a short stint on the A592 as we connected up the valleys passing the southern tip of Ullswater on route for Glenridding. I caught up with another runner along one stretch of road and we chatted for a while. I noted he was running a bit slower than me at this point and I reminded myself this was an ultra marathon. I had got used to the roads we were now mainly running on and had picked my pace up. Slowing to chat with him got me back into ultra pacing mode.
We discussed the route we had to take until the second checkpoint. A bit of a slog up a long hilly road proceeded the checkpoint. As it turned out it wasn’t too bad and merely the warm-up for the second big climb of the day. A few spots of rain started appearing at this point as grey clouds replaced the bright blue skies from earlier.
I knew that the second checkpoint just outside Glenridding was at the base of the second climb over Sticks Pass. Arriving at the second checkpoint I was greeted with the same enthusiasm and encouragement as the first. It was relatively quiet in terms of other runners but I recognised the same faces from the first checkpoint so I was holding my position. Once again, super helpful volunteers assisting with filling my water bottles and pointing out all the food they had to offer. The catering options included hot food; soup, pizza and hot drinks as well as variety of sweets options for sugar. I opted for a slice of pizza but it was very hard work getting it down. The best thing at this checkpoint was the watermelon. I had a couple of thick slices.
Hayeswater to Glenridding 10km in 1hr 3mins.
I set off from Hayeswater checkpoint with two familiar faces both of whom opted for hot drinks and so as I pushed on I naturally found myself starting the ascent on my own leaving them to enjoy their drinks.
This climb was very rocky and the hills surrounding me had changed from lush green to slate grey rocks. This seemed appropriate as the rain started to fall. Very twisty and large steps up during this climb required my hands and upper body to loft myself up at times. Controlling my breathing and maintaining a steady hiking pace I climbed quite quickly up from the valley below. As the climb progressed it switched back west and out onto a plateaux at about 550m that I was able to begin running once again. No sooner had I started running than the hill ramped skywards once more. The final ascent over the summit of Sticks Pass at around 750m was inauspicious being mainly damp and boggy.
The skies had darkened considerably now and cool mist rolled in from the north. I popped my rain jacket on as conditions changed and I passed a solitary marshal at the crossroads on the path at the summit. The familiar squelch of mud and boggy ground added to the changing conditions.
The descent from Sticks Pass was a tough challenge. Initially it wasn’t too bad with boggy ground and rocks to skip over. The ground soon became very wet and unpredictable with lots of large rocks and slippery mud. I was having to use all my strength and balance to pick a path down. I was passed by the two runners I had left the checkpoint with wishing them well as they went by. In places I stopped in my tracks as I picked an optimal route down more technical sections.
After what seemed like 20 minutes descending I could sense the end and my confidence grew. I picked up the pace as I felt the ground slightly firmer beneath my feet. The last few twists and turns were brutal as my quads burned once more. Some walkers going in the opposite direction informed me I was almost there. Finally, I turned to see a small gathering of supporters clapping and waiting to cheer on family or friends.
Psychologically getting down from that ascent meant I had to the two big climbs behind me now. The next milestone was to get to the third and final checkpoint just after the marathon distance of 42.2km at Threlkeld.
Turning right after a small road section onto the A591 for a short stretch gave me chance to take a breather, get some food in and take on some fluids. I wasn’t on this stretch of busy road for long as we turned right into Rigghause Wood. I had been caught by another runner here and passed a stationary runner getting something from his pack. The three of us would change positions and run together for short sections all the way to the next checkpoint.
The second missed way marker moment occurred here as I was too busy chatting once more. I was feeling the climbs now and was conscious to hike any undulations to preserve energy and hopefully refuel and reset at the last checkpoint.
The last few km of this stage was a pig. Running through very waterlogged cow fields which had already had a few hundred runners pass through them from the 22km race that Jen ran. It was very heavy going and shin deep in places. Absolutely no chance of keeping my feet dry. By now the two other runners were ahead of me as I struggled to stay with them. Lots of gates to open and close. The rain was very heavy now and added to the gloom during this section.
Finally out of the fields and onto tarmac once again. A very short run alongside the A66 after running over it on a bridge took us down into Threlkeld and the village hall for the final checkpoint.
Glenridding to Threkeld 14.7km in 2hrs 18min.
The rain was lashing down as I entered the third and final checkpoint. The checkpoint at Threkeld was as great as the previous two had been. Fully stocked and the same smiling faces. My two friends from the previous stage whom I had ran mostly with were both groaning at that section through the cow fields. I had suggested to one of them that we should change into dry socks but we both agreed that we couldn’t be bothered. My trail shoes were doing an excellent job of dispersing the water and mud and after a few hundred meters on the roads they already felt drier despite the rain.
At the checkpoint I filled my drinks bottles one last time and grabbed a chocolate spread sandwich and a handful of jelly sweets. The best thing I had was half a pint of flat Coke. Coke is well known in the distance running world for it's restorative qualities but the secret is in it being flat as it goes down so much easier. I felt refreshed almost instantly.
The weather was awful as I exited the village hall but I knew I only had 14km to go so felt in control and headed off to take on the last climb of the day. Fortunately this was the easiest of the climbs and I felt confident that although I was tired I would be able to maintain a steady pace to the finish.
After only a few minutes of running on roads leaving Threlkeld we turned up Blease Road which was the start of the final stage proper. This was a long straight road that was fairly runnable but I was slowing to a hike when I felt like the gradient was a little too severe. I caught up with a male runner first who seemed to be stretching out his legs sporadically. I asked if he was ok and he said he was struggling with both knees. He mentioned we were doing very well and that he had asked roughly how many people had been through the last checkpoint. He was told 20 odd. I was amazed and couldn’t quite believe it. We ran and chatted for a while until the road turned to rocky trail were we caught a female runner. She asked if we had passed any other females as she thought she was third lady.
It was around this point that the trail levelled out and I transitioned to a run. I felt really good and much better than I had prior to the last checkpoint. My energy levels seemed higher and I was able to run quite strongly, enough to pull away from both the runners I had just been chatting with.
Running alongside Blease Fell and following the brilliantly named Glenderaterra Beck below, the trail was undulating and twisty. The wind and rain had eased slightly which helped get into a decent rhythm. My legs felt like they had some running left in them. After 1.5km a hairpin left took me up to the final summit. A modest 450m and a ridge line above Glenderaterra Beck. The ground was fairly wet all along this section with large rocks and puddles to navigate. However, I was now moving quite freely knowing the rest of the race was downhill all the way into Keswick town centre.
Running around the side of Lonscale Fell the path opened up and I picked the pace up more and more. Passing some people from the 22km race as I went and a couple of slowing runners from the 56k race. My watch indicated about 5km to go. I let my legs go at this point and almost came unstuck just after a gate by changing my mind at the last second to take a different path around a ditch.
The pace was strong and I descended down the fell and into a woodland section. I became aware of the sounds of civilization returning. Traffic and other people becoming ever present to my senses. Working hard now trying to get to the finish line. I still felt good but I was tired. A few well wishers giving encouragement as I got closer and closer to the finish line.
Upon reaching Brundholme Road I was a little unsure of the directions from here so switched to the map on my watch which I had barely had to use up to now. With traffic and pedestrians milling about the route was less clear. I almost went wrong at a mini roundabout next to the leisure centre but a marshal called out to me. As I passed they gave me directions to take next. Helpful when you are dog tired and not thinking straight. Past the cricket ground and along Station Road before a right-left-left past the market on the High Street which was in full swing full of Saturday shoppers. Dodging people when running reasonably quickly made for an interesting end to a race. All I was concerned with was not taking a wrong turn so spotting the marshals in the crowds was important.
An annoying loop past and then around Crow Park was the last section of the race and I maybe misjudged my effort slightly in that I was really tired now. I stopped as I got a little confused by the route only to be told the direction by someone which helped me get to the entrance to the park where I immediately saw the finish line. One final push and over the line in 7hrs 26mins and 22nd place.